Sailing with your Dog

Sailing is a wonderful activity for anybody willing to work the lines, learn the lingo and understand navigation.  Many sailors do have their furry companions accompany them on their voyages, actually 62% of sailors do. I mean how fun can sailing the seven seas be without Rover by your side? How do you get your dog use to sailing and what preparations should you have?

First of all you want your dog to be housebroken or learn to use training pads or a special potty patch for long trips.  Also you need to have at least basic commands down. Having a dog run and jump across deck or get into things they shouldn’t can make any trip (on sea or on land) very difficult.

ALWAYS have proper identification on your dog at all times.

Equipment you should have on board:
Potty pads/potty patch
Pet Stain and Odor cleaner (accidents happen and you don’t want your boat smelling of puppy wee)
Small supply of dog food
Portable Bowls for food and water
Doggy Lifejacket
First Aid kit (you should have one on deck anyway)
Tums (yup…for seasick puppy tummys)
Water safe toys to keep your dog from chewing on boat equipment

Getting your dog use to it’s sea legs

The first thing is to introduce your dog to the dock. Many dogs do not care for the unstable wobble of the boat docking areas and should have their confidence built. Use treats and praise to raise your dogs trust. Don’t put your dog on the boat until they are completely comfortable walking around the marina.

Be very careful loading your dog into and of of the boat. Once the dog is in your boat let them get their bearings of the area. If your dog seems stressed or continually tries jumping out of the boat you’ll want to introduce your pup’s favorite treat and show them that the boat is a good thing and that there is nothing to be scared of. You don’t want to go sailing with an erratic dog on board….this can be very dangerous.

Once you and your pooch are comfortable, hoist the sails!

Reminders -

*Dogs can overheat quickly so always make sure they have plenty of fresh water and a cool place to lay
*Training your dog to use a ramp or stiff ladder will make things much easier if your dog enjoys jumping in the water for a quick swim
*For sailing trips have your dog wear a nylon collar for quick drying (leather can be ruined and shrink as it dries and fabric collars stay soppy wet for hours.
*Keep a copy of your dogs shot records on board in case of emergencies.
*Please be respectful of other sailors and marina rules even when docking at marinas other than yours.
*Dispose of pet waste properly
*Trim your dogs nails to keep a proper length. Long dog nails can scratch surfaces on your boat.

Doggy Pool Tips

this is a Scamper Ramp that you can put in your pool to allow for your pet easy access in and out

* Give him a gradual introduction into the pool or lake by holding him snugly and slowly walking into the
water. Let him get wet a little at a time and eventually let him swim to the exit. Make it a positive experience with lots of encouragement and praise.

* Teach proper swimming technique. All dogs will instinctively paddle when submerged in water, but as
inexperienced swimmers, many dogs try to rely on their front legs and do little with their rear legs. This
results in an almost vertical swim technique with lots of splashing. It’s exhausting and very easy for a do
to become over-tired this way. With proper training, the most vertical of swimmers can learn to use their
rear legs, evening out their performance and swimming much more effectively and safely. Keep a close eye on your dog – if you see them become over-stimulated or fatigued, it’s time to call them out. If you see your accomplished swimmer dog lowering his rear, this is a sign that he is getting tired.

*Dogs have poor depth perception so if the pool has steps, mark them with a big potted plant and make sure he associates the plant as the exit marker. If there are no steps, provide a non-slip ramp forgetting out.Spend sufficient time training him to go up the ramp if he’s alone.

* If your dog plays in a lake, make sure to stand at the place on the shore where he can easily walk out.

* Always use a life jacket on your dog in ponds, lakes, rivers, or the open water. Just like with people, it’s easy for a dog to develop a cramp in a leg, become exhausted too far from shore, or in the case of rivers or oceans, overwhelmed by tides. Life jackets give your dog the extra protection to stay buoyant.

* Keep safety floatation devices nearby, just in the case of an emergency. If your dog gets into trouble, a life preserver attached to a long line is the best course of action to take. Dogs panic easily in the water when trouble hits, and a panicked, flailing dog can accidentally drown any person trying to assist it. Get the dog to grab out to the preserver first and try to reel it in closer to shore before physically trying to help it out.

* Training polite pool manners is a must. A big Golden Retriever sailing through the air in her excitement to get in the water is a no-no. Train the canine to “Wait” at pool’s edge or to always use the steps or the ramp.

* Also teach her that the “Come” command applies to the pool as much as it does to dry land.

* Be mindful of the specific needs of your dog’s breed. Each dog’s physical structure and body-type will
greatly impact his swimming ability. Heavily muscled bully breeds exert more energy while swimming due
to their increased body mass. Consider using a lifejacket with such dogs for added protection.

* Watch your dog’s nails! Dogs can quickly wear their nails down to the point of bleeding as they excitedly race around the pool’s exterior. Keep a watchful eye on the pads of their feet as well. Repeated launching from pool steps can tear up paw pads; especially for dogs who spend most of their time on grass.

* Unless your pool cover is solid and strong enough to support your weight, do not leave it on when your dog is unattended near the pool. Countless dogs, even accomplished swimmers, have lost their lives following an unexpected tumble into a covered pool. Once they’re in, the cover is disorienting and it’s almost always impossible for a dog to find his way out. If your dog needs to spend time in the yard unsupervised, consider erecting a pool safety fence.

* Avoid letting your dog drink pool water. Always keep an ample supply of fresh water around so your dog can drink without attempting to drink from the pool. Also make sure you give your dog many opportunities to relieve himself after a swim as he is likely to ingest water from wherever he is swimming (pool, pond, lake or ocean) and may need to urinate more often.

* Make sure you rinse your dog off after a swim to get chlorine and other pool chemicals, as well as bacteria or dirt he might get on him from a pond or lake. Don’t let your dog sit in a wet collar as hot spots can develop. Be mindful of areas where water can collect, like ears, groin, and armpits, where moisture-induced infections can occur.

* If your dog is overweight or a senior, check with your veterinarian first before allowing him to swim. This is also important for dogs who are generally sedentary. Dogs, like people, experience muscle soreness and stiffness and they’re counting on us to lookout for their best interests.

*Always flush a dogs' eyes out with a pet approved eye wash after swimming the the pool. This will get rid of any chlorine that could irritate the eye.

*Also check your dog's ears after being in the water. This is extremely important for floppy eared dogs, the trapped moister could cause ear infections. After swimming you dry the ear out with a cotton ball (do NOT use a q-tip) and then apply an ear drying powder or creme to remove any moisture.

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BREEDS THAT TEND TO SINK INSTEAD OF SWIM

These breeds usually needs assistance of a doggy life jacket because they either sink due to dense,
heavy bones or brachycephalic dogs. Some do swim but they get tired very quickly.

1. Basset Hound
2.English Bulldog
3. French Bulldog
4. Shih Tzu
5. Pekingese
6. Bull Terrier
7. Boston Terrier
8. Dachshund
9. Cavalier King
10. any breed of dog, purebred or mutt, that is obese or is a senior dog.

Dogs in the Summer Heat

Things to Know About Having a Dog in the Desert Heat

* Dogs in the House
The best situation for your dog would be to have the dog be trained as an indoor pet, where she can keep cool inside the air conditioned house during the hot summer days. Keep the thermostat at a reasonable temperature for your pet.

* Dogs in the Yard
If the dog must be kept in the yard during the hot parts of the day in the summer it is absolutely essential that there be a dark, shady place where the dog can escape from the blazing sun. A tree is probably not good enough. A ventilated dog house, or a pen with shade cover, or a covered patio is a must. Make sure that there is adequate shade at all times of the day that the dog is outside.

* Dogs and Water
If the dog is outside, make certain that there is a good supply of clean water in a weighted dish (or two in different locations in case one gets knocked over anyway).

* Keeping Dogs Cool
Some dogs enjoy water and can keep cool if a misting system is left on during the day, or if there's a kiddy wading pool for them with a couple of inches of water in it where they can sit to cool off. Keep these in the shade, too. Sitting in a tub of 110 degree water won't help the dog. Some people I know say that they provide a sandbox with damp sand for the dog. Digging must be allowed in the sandbox--you'll only frustrate a dog with a sandbox where digging is not permitted!

* Dogs in the Pool
If your dog has access to your swimming pool or spa, make sure the dog is trained to get out of the pool. The dog needs to know how to get to the steps. If there are no steps or shallow areas, like in some lap pools, make sure the pool is fenced and locked so the dog can't get in. Every year puppies and dogs drown in backyard pools because they could jump in, but they couldn't get out.

* Dogs That Swim
Speaking of dogs that love to swim, we know that there are certain breeds that were born to do just that, and they are ever-so-happy cooling off at the beach or at the lake. Here's the problem--we don't have a beach in Phoenix, and animals are not allowed in our lakes or canals. Even if they were, you wouldn't want your dog wading in, or even drinking, the water in our local lakes which are mostly reclaimed water and can easily make your pet very sick. If you have a breed that must play in the water, there is only one place in the Valley where you can take her, and it is in Gilbert.

* Walking the Dog in the Summer
Can you walk your dog in the summer? Yes, but it is generally accepted that you should only walk your dog early in the morning or later in the evening, about an hour after the sun has gone down. That's because not only is the temperature high, but the sidewalks will be too hot for the pads of the dog's paws. They'll burn. General rule: if the sidewalk is too hot for you to walk barefoot, it is too hot for your dog to walk on. If you choose to walk your dog in the summer, hopefully early or late, bring along water and make frequent water stops for the dog. Don't take long walks or over-exert in the summer. Consider these walks light exercise.

* Dogs and Heat Exhaustion
Heat exhaustion is common in dogs. It can happen your own yard, or on a walk. Dogs cool themselves by panting. If panting does not reduce the body temperature the dog will develop heat stroke. Early signs of heat exhaustion include rapid breathing, heavy panting, and salivation. Other signs are fatigue, muscle tremors, and staggering. If you see a dog that is experiencing heat exhaustion, take the dog to a cool, shady place, and apply wet towels or cloths to help cool the dog's body down. Try to give the dog small amounts of water, and immediately call a vet.

* Dogs and the Sun
Dogs get sunburned. Especially dogs with short hair or little hair on some parts of their bodies. Keep them out of the sun.

* Hiking with the Dog in the Summer
Like to hike with your dog? Please do it very early in the morning. Carry plenty of water, and make it the easy hike, please.

* Dogs Breeds That Don't Like Heat
Overweight and older dogs will have more difficulty with the heat. As far as breeds are concerned, it is generally accepted that snub-nosed dogs, like boxers, bulldogs, pugs, Boston terriers, Lhasa apsos and shih tzus have poor panting mechanisms, and so are more susceptible to being affected by heat. These should be indoor dogs, and should not be kept in the yard during the day. They should spend their days lounging in air conditioned comfort. Dogs with heavy coats can be trimmed for the summer, but not shaved bare or else they'll have a hard time insulating themselves and will be prone to sunburn and other skin irritations.

* Dogs and Summer Exercise
It's never a good idea to exercise your dog by having him run alongside your bicycle. If for some reason you do this from time to time, please don't do it in the summer.

*Dogs and Trucks
If your dog loves to travel in the back of your pickup, please avoid the temptation. If for some reason you must take your dog with you in the back of your truck, make sure the surface of where the dog has to sit/stand is not metal, and does not absorb heat. Test it. Leave your truck out in the sun for two hours and then go stand in it for 20 minutes in your bare feet (or sit on it with your bare butt!). If it feels hot to you, or it burns the skin right off your body, it feels that way to your dog, too.

* Dogs in the Car
I know that Fido loves to ride in the car, too. I've never met a dog that didn't. If you are going to run some errands, and it's 100 degrees outside, and the dog wants to come along in the car, please do him a favor and leave him home. If for some reason you have to take him along, do not ever leave him in the car without the A/C on. Even with the windows cracked, that car will heat up fast enough to cause brain damage or death in just a few minutes.